Warning: Not for the strong faithed
This piece only discusses the magic of the Srisailam temple. There is a scenic dam and reservoir too. But all that is too clichéd.
In Hyderabad it is widely accepted as the ‘only good place’ in the vicinity worth visiting. A ride to this abode of Shiva takes about 5 to 6 hours from Hyderabad and is pretty scenic. And you will ride through plains, forests and hills over State Highways which are pretty well maintained by Indian standards.
We had pre-booked the APTDC hotel which is a few blocks from the temple. It had uniformly unmaintained rooms with nice views of the adjacent building on all sides. They will leave you to yourself and will not disturb you with room service or cleaning, as long as you stay. The attached ‘restaurant’ serves ‘complimentary’ breakfast of the holy trinity of idly, vada and upma. The lunch you may buy is also the classic South India thali prepared with an extra touch of salt and red chili powder. Veg of course, that’s implicit! There is a Canteen near the temple – which serves much better food. But get your food packed – unless you want to witness how hygiene is ravished.
Srisailam overflows with the typical Hindu obsession with cows and cow dung. It is just not possible to walk without stepping on one of those blackish heaps. I could see cows even inside the temple complex. If you somehow manage to dodge a cow you will bump on a beggar; or someone selling overly colourful overpriced booklets of Bronze Age stories in various languages. The sidewalks are cluttered with the vastly popular fortune tellers who otherwise look like hippies, and have a wingless parrot crammed into a 4 inch cage, which pulls out a dirty brown card of fate from a stack. We surely need more beef eaters; and since I cannot possibly ask for more cannibals, a serious drive on vasectomy.
Roads from all sides to the temple complex are blocked by low gates to stop all vehicles, leaving only the pedestrian ways free on both sides. The guard was confronting a brand new car which had just been administered some holy scribbling as well as paintings of various gods on all its windows including windscreen, rendering them virtually opaque. The barefooted guard ultimatey prevailed, and saved the temple from that car. One bystander asked him something – and he nodded – it was clear no car is allowed. He had barely seated himself that he stood up again in a salute. Lo! A white Mercedes with a beacon was waiting on the temple side of the gate. After he attended it, I asked if that was ‘an aircraft’. He nodded again. I do not know why.
On both side of the roads there are shops of various sizes, but all of them selling exactly the same items, which are used to bribe deities. There is a strong positive correlation between how much you spend and how much of luck you can earn. No wonder the Mercedes people are so lucky. Finding a grocer or medic will be tough; his shop too will be selling the bribe-ware on the front row.
It was worth going inside the temple – to experience the real connect. A group of devotees, about 50 in number, unkempt except for their newly made white clothes, were seated on the ground around the gate – and infinitely repeating a devotional sentence. Most of them were enjoying it, in fact, having fun. While howling on, they were keeping tab on the aunties and sisters around. Some played with their mobile phones.
At the temple you may buy privileged darshan at a cost which allows short cuts to the deities, and a free one which requires you to stand at least for a few hours in a stenchy filthy zigzag queue guided by a mesh of metal nets.
We took neither – and bribed our way in. As a result we got a Nepalese guard who guided us through. During the entry to the narrow pathway overlooking sanctum sanctorum, you will be fitted into the longer queue. Then onwards you need not bother about moving – the mass of humanity will guide you. Shrieks, cries, shouts, moans, pushes, punches, smells and gasps will drown your sanity. Children barely understand the magic this peril will bring to their lives and were uniformly uncooperative. Except for one I saw sleeping – probably she has passed out in this magic spell.
I felt like one with the world.
===========================================
To address the most obvious question that you may ask: Why did a filthy atheist like me go there?
- Someone had to write this up. Devotion overlooks details. Ain’t the details funny?
- To see more clichéd stuff too
- To see a lovely rainbow on my way back
- To drive 500 km in 3 days
Honest Blabber 